PYONGYANG – There’s no doubt that Pyongyang is changing: brand new apartments are cropping up, entire new streets have been built, and major public leisure facilities are emerging across the town. It’s a point the government is keen to emphasize, as a cursory glance of state media on any given day will reveal.

But below the shiny new buildings – many of which are hallmark development projects associated with Kim Jong Un, government and the party – dozens of new shops and restaurants are emerging and colorful, modern fashions can be regularly seen worn by local citizens.